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What does beach morphodynamics mean?
- Beach morphodynamics
- Beach morphodynamics refers to the study of the interaction and adjustment of the seafloor topography and fluid hydrodynamic processes, seafloor morphologies and sequences of change dynamics involving the motion of sediment. Hydrodynamic processes include those of waves, tides and wind-induced currents. While hydrodynamic processes respond instantaneously to morphological change, morphological change requires the redistribution of sediment. As sediment takes a finite time to move, there is a lag in the morphological response to hydrodynamic forcing. Sediment can therefore be considered to be a time-dependent coupling mechanism. Since the boundary conditions of hydrodynamic forcing change regularly, this may mean that the beach never attains equilibrium. This systems approach to the coast was developed by Wright and Thom in 1977. Examples of beach morphodynamic processes include the formation of beach cusps, intertidal bars and log-spiral /crenulate embayments. Morphodynamic processes exhibit positive and negative feedbacks, nonlinearities and threshold behaviour.
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